28 Hubin Road (or Hubin 28) located inside Grand Hyatt hotel on the shore of West Lake is considered, by many visitors, one “must-go” restaurant in Hangzhou. It is frequently mentioned by Michelin guide, but to be honest, when I visited the restaurant about 5 years ago, my impression of it was quite unremarkable. However, revisiting it after all these years has been a revelation. Each dish was delicious, and executed with sophistication.
At Hubin 28, seasonal ingredients are presented in ways that seamlessly blend tradition with innovation, creating a dining experience that is both familiar, and full of delightful surprises. The restaurant carefully chooses the finest parts of local Chinese ingredients, recreating a nostalgic “taste of childhood” that only exists in my memory — a comforting flavor of Jiangnan （江南）. I tend to glorify delicious dishes I had when I was a child, and often think it’s impossible to find dishes that deliver the same level of satisfaction nowadays.
Once seated, we were welcomed with two small appetizers (not pictured): salted fava beans and house-made pickles, along with a bowl of warm red bean soup with 陈皮 sun-dried mandarin peel. The pickled vegetables change with the seasons, featuring crisp greens that retain their natural texture. The subtle sweetness of the vegetables perfectly balances the tangy and spicy seasoning. The dish was so good that we quickly asked for another serving.
The red bean soup is no stranger to Chinese people. It was especially comforting on a winter’s day, with just the right amount of sweetness and a hint of bitterness from the tangerine peel. The soup was relatively thick, and it included two glutinous rice balls. Personally, I feel it would have been better served at the end of the meal as a dessert.
Original cocktail with Chinese Hua Diao rice wine
This low-alcohol cocktail masterfully combines elements of tea, wine, and Hangzhou’s local culture. Using yellow wine and traditional Hua Diao wine as its base, the drink is infused with osmanthus syrup, lemon juice, and Jiuqu Hongmei black tea, and garnished with dried osmanthus flowers. The black tea’s mellow sweetness enhances the rich aroma of the wines, while the osmanthus adds a lingering floral note. The overall flavor is light, sweet, and refreshing, though its depth could be more pronounced in my opinion.
Classic Appetizer Platter
The platter consists of 3 vegetarian and 3 non-vegetarian dishes offers a great way to explore traditional Hangzhounese delicacies. Each piece of osmanthus syrup glazed glutinous rice stuffed lotus root (middle) had just the right level of sweetness, allowing the fresh aroma of the lotus root to shine through without being overpowered by the glutinous rice filling. The sweet and sour spare ribs (left) were served slightly warm, tender, and perfectly balanced with a touch of sweetness. The drunken chicken (poached chicken soaked in a brine of rice wine and chicken stock) was exceptionally tender and juicy. The smoked fish (right) was lightly crisp on the outside, its meat absorbs the slightly sweet soy sauce based juice, and is wonderfully succulent. These dishes, rooted in traditional Hangzhou cuisine, were prepared to perfection, evoking familiar yet elevated flavors.
Seasonal Menu: Spicy and Sour Soup with Fresh Clam
At the bottom of the bowl lay silky steamed egg custard, finely shredded bamboo shoots, and thinly sliced Guangdong clams. Hot broth was poured over the ingredients tableside to cook the clams. The soup base—a blend of Guizhou sour soup and Hubin 28’s house-made broth—was clear and light in appearance but delivered a layered burst of flavors: sour, spicy, and umami. The natural sweetness of the bamboo shoots and the clams’ delicate texture elevated this dish to a truly memorable experience.
Signature Braised Pork Belly
In early December, Hangzhou’s streets are filled with golden ginkgo leaves, and Hubin 28 captures this seasonal beauty in its dishes. The braised pork belly, without relying on heavy sauces, is steamed to perfection, achieving a tender, flavorful richness that is never greasy.
The most impressive detail is the meticulous slicing of the pork belly into 19 uniform layers, stacked to resemble a pagoda. Hidden at the base are salted bamboo shoots from Tianmu Mountain, adding a crunchy, refreshing contrast. The braised pork is paired with warm, fluffy chestnut buns. The richness of pork, the refreshing crunchy bamboo shoots, and the slight sweetness of the steamed bun combine in perfect harmony.
Meigancai Braised Beef Tongue
This might be one of the best beef tongues I’ve ever had! The tongue is slow-cooked in a flavorful marinade, sliced, and topped with a succulent, thick sauce made with Meigancai (traditional pickled vegetables). The sweetness of the sauce really enhances the natural umami of the tender beef tongue. Only the softest, most delicate part of the tongue is used, delivering an unbelievable melt-in-your-mouth texture!
The dish is served atop a thin layer of rice, which absorbs the sauce beautifully. Together with the beef tongue, the rice’s subtle sweetness creates an exquisite balance of flavors that lingers long after the last bite.
P.S. As mentioned earlier, Hubin 28 selects only the finest portions of its vegetables and meats for its dishes. When I asked the restaurant about the rest, they explained that these are used for staff meals.
Sincerity is the Best Seasoning
Exceptional service is to be expected from a restaurant frequently featured in prestigious guides such as China’s Black Pearl, Michelin, and Asia’s 50 Best, and Hubin 28 largely delivers. The only slight disappointment was that, apart from the dining room manager, the servers seemed to lack knowledge about the dishes. Questions about the ingredients or their origins often went unanswered.
While comparable restaurants like 金沙厅 Jin Sha typically require reservations two to three months in advance, I believe Hubin 28 holds the edge. I personally think the average price of 400–500 RMB per person is more than justified. Eschewing pretension and unnecessary showmanship, Hubin 28’s thoughtful selection of ingredients and meticulous preparation result in dishes that are refined, yet humble. They are traditional and innovative at the same time. The table becomes a medium that transmits happiness, and a storybook that discusses that past and present of Zhejiang fine dining.
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